Friday, April 13, 2012

AND THE 12 SEASONS BECAME 16

Where were we? Right, no more compromises. No more women on the verge, hanging between two seasons. How come? Well, after so much work and study, it became clear that the system needed to be refined. It was all about finding a "portion of chorma" for the "difficult" seasons in Munsell's chromatic circle.

 For which seasons? Which were the difficult ones?  Soft Summer for starters. The most misdiagnosed season. A season with a very mediumness, a chameleontic coloring.  There was the regular, classic Soft Summer, blonde or light brown haired, which in the right colors (smooth and dusty) looked stunning, who had that smoky soft look to her:








 
And then there were those who seemed Dark Winterish, yet they were Soft Summer, the velvety ones. Winter's colors were too much on them:


winterish colors wash Katie out
smooth, rich colors enhance Katie's natural beauty





The Soft Summers in the above pics are very velvety. What does velvety mean? It means that they have more depth in their coloring than a regular Soft Summer. So in order to make the Soft Summer's palette work for their depth range, the colors needed some more grey. So grey was added to the palette. The chroma is still low but these women are deeper, and also more intense. And so, there it is: the first one among the new seasons. DEEP SOFT SUMMER. With a color palette of its own.

The DEEP SOFT SUMMER, though, is not the stereotype of the medium dark haired girl, with a winterish looks. No sir. THE SOFT SUMMER DEEP is the summer that CAN HANDLE MORE COLOR AND A LITTLE MORE INTENSE THAN THE REGULAR SOFT SUMMER.

An example?



There you go. Kristen Bell. At a first glance she is very similar to a regular Soft Summer. Soft coloring, low natural contrasts.

 






Still, Kristen can handle colors in her make up that can be very unflattering for Ellen Pompeo, a regular Soft Summer. 


 

While Kristen  doesn't look bad at all with eyeliner and the red lip, and her facial features are still very in focus, Ellen is so off with that make up. The only thing visible on her face are the two black circles, the black eyeliner. All the rest is just disapearing. That's because Ellen's contrast is very very low. She doesn't have sudden contrasts in her coloring, no sudden passages between hair, skin and eyes. Therefore the black eyeliner disrupts her natural smoothness and instead of enhancing her eyes, it disturbs, it dominates her face.

Kristen instead, is doing fine with that eyeliner, her face is still the main attraction. How come? It happens because Kristen has a more intense coloring, she has more depth even though you wouldn't notice this at a first glance. 
How can it be possible then to tell apart a Soft Summer Classic from a Deep Soft Summer if both of them are blonde? Simply. With a color analysis. Color analysis is about seeing the person in different colors and seeing how she reacts to these colors. No matter the hair color.
Another Deep Soft Summer, bellow:





There used to be the Soft Autumn women. The classic ones:






Low natural contrast, misty soft neutral warm coloring and those amazing soft warm hazy eyes. Women who would be highly penalized by harsh colors, black lines, heavy smoky make up or loud lips:









Or...maybe not....





WOW! How come Hayden Panettiere is looking so amazing with that make up, in spite of her being a Soft Autumn like Mischa or Mary Kate? The answer is simple: she is more intense and she is obviously deeper than the other Soft Autumns, even if she may seem to have identical coloring to Mischa or Mary Kate. She only seems to be identical to them as far as coloring is concerned.

AUTUNNO SOFT CLASSICO
AUTUNNO SOFT PROFONDO






















Well, I 'd say the difference is quite obvious. And so, the second new season came to life: DEEP SOFT AUTUMN.
Oh, I almost forgot. There was another type of Soft Autumn. Those who seemed so deep and intense that they were confused with a Deep Autumn. Except that ..those colors were too harsh and heavy on them:




In the DA colors, Hilary looks older and harsh.
In HER colors, she looks amazing


DA MAKE UP AND COLORS-DEFINITELY TOO MUCH






PURE PERFECTION-DEEP SOFT AUTUMN
And so, these women too found their HOME SEASON in the newborn DEEP SOFT AUTUMN. Because, no matter if blonde or brunettes, we must remember that the chroma and the intensity of a person can be determined only after an accurate color analysis, after we observe the skin reacting to color.

Then, there were the Light Springs, who were often mistaken for Soft Autumns, or maybe they were Soft Autumns mistaken for Light Springs?? Who knows? A tragedy. Big confusion. Light Spring's colors were almost good on them. If only they hadn't been so...bright. But then again Soft Autumn's colors were too heavy, TOO DUSTY.
Now these women were really floating among seasons. They had to borrow the light value colors from the Light Spring but they had to combine them with the low chroma from the SOft Autumn.
Solution'? Take the light ethereal VALUE from Light Spring and mix it with a touch of Soft Autumn's dustiness. A new season sees the light. The women floating in limbo between Light Spring and Soft Autumn now have THEIR OWN season: SOFT LIGHT SPRING.


An example? Rebecca Romjin:


Light value, neutral-warm coloring and from the pic above she seems to be soft so the verdict would be Soft Autumn. 





That dusty blue dress isn't doing her any good; on the contrary, it is making her face dusty too. If she were a Soft Autumn, that dusty blue should emphasize her features and give that soft hazy light to her eyes, just like it does to Giselle, bellow:




So, after seeing what that dusty blue does to her, the logical conclusion would be Light Spring. After all Light + Neutral /Warm + High Chroma = Light Spring, isn't it?







Not bad, I must say. Better than Soft Autumn, but she isn't amazing. The coat is perfect, and is a Light Spring color. The lip is a little bit off. A Light Spring, with a high chroma, would do much better with that clear light red lipstick. Like this:

 

 


Comparing:


 













Perfection.

Lastly, there were the women who thought that they already had their season, they were convinced to be Deep Soft Summers (ex Velvety Soft Summers)
Infine, c'erano le ragazze che pensavano di non aver bisogno di una stagione, erano convinte di essere delle Estati Soft Profonde (ex Velvety):







If only those colors, weren't so veiled, so soft...too soft for them.


 

See? While Katie Holmes has a beautifull glow to her in that rich, full soft color, Ginnifer... well she just doesn't have the WOW FACTOR, she is kind of washed out.
The logical conclusion was that they might be Dark Winters, they must be Dark Winters, if the Deep Soft colors were not enough for them...it was clear they were DW:






 
Really? No. This type of women weren't Dark Winters, the colors were too harsh on them, black didn't penalize them, not too much anyway, but it didn't love them either, not the way black loves a REAL DARK WINTER.
 



And so these women realized that they had no real season... they weren't real Deep Soft Summers nor Dark Winters.
Solution? Take a large dose of Dark Winter's intensity and another one of its cold and heavy depth, then combine it with just a light touch of Soft Summer's grey, and there you go, a new color palette was ready: SOFT DEEP WINTER.







So this is how the 12 seasons became 16. Four new seasons were born. But not for a whim or just for the love of change. Nope. They came to life as an answer to a real need. They were created in order to improve the circle of the seasons, in order to give a color fan and a place in the chromatic circle to the persons with a "complex" coloring, those who weren't able to find their place in the 12 system.

Actually, the seasons are 4, just like the meteorological seasons. Only that instead of having 3 sub types, now every season has four sub types. A new sub type has been added to each one of the 4 main seasons. The color fans that were lacking are now available, the system is now complete. PERFECT I'd dare to say.

If you want to comment, please feel free to do so, and I hope you enjoyed the foretaste of the NEW 16 SEASONS SYSTEM.
Thank you!

Pia

22 comments:

  1. Hi there. Who's the lady you have as your other brunette deep soft summer lady? The one you haven't named just before the soft autumn examples?

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  2. Hello :-) The lady is Olivia Wilde, famous for her role in DR. House. Thank you for passing by.

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  3. I so understand the need for those in between seasons. I was recently analyzed by a sci/art, or newly named Spectrafiles, analyst as a light summer. The colors are beautiful, but I have some complaints. I struggle to find lip color that isn't too overpowering from my palette, but I can still wear very dramatic eye makeup. I don't look good in the light gray's they suggest, in fact my face disappears in them, but I can wear black eyeliner without it diminishing my eyes. In fact, I feel I need more depth there.

    I need the light ethereal colors, but the brightness is often overpowering. I've struggled to find myself completely in my colors. I feel they need to be slightly grayed to be perfect, but still keep that light ethereal quality. My natural hair coloring is more of a light ash brown, on the very ashy side, almost gray, and my eyes are a fairly vivid grayish blue-green with very small flecks of gold. My skin tends to be more translucent which I think compliments the lighter palette, but I still feel so overwhelmed by the brightness of the light summer colors. I expected the color palette to be on the softer side because of the higher summer influence, but they tend more toward spring's intensity.

    Strange, but I hope one day to be completely comfortable in my own skin.

    Thank you for your open-mindedness.

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  4. Well Thalia, thank you for you expressing your opinion and sharing it on my blog. From what you are saying you seem to be more a soft summer( maybe deep) than a Light summer. I really hope you can find YOUR real colors, I know how important it is.
    Pia

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  5. Thanks for this great explanation of the 16 colour system, I really loved how you explained it with illustrations, very helpful. In the new system is there also a "Soft Autumn Light"? (Or are you saying 'Soft Autumn Classic' is the lighter version, given there is now a 'Soft Autumn Deep'.

    thanks for shining the light on this for me :-))

    Stacey

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    Replies
    1. Stacey: yes there is a Soft Autumn Light and one Deep. I think soft autumn light is a new season two. The soft colors of the autumn on the light side. :-) I think the original fans of the soft autumn were a mix of medium tned colors for this season, while now we have a light soft autumn and a deep soft autumn.

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  6. Well, I find this really helpful. I thought I was a SA, and posted my pic on a forum, where they thought I was a DA. But...I do not have coloring dramatic enough to be a DA, however, I can wear black and darker lipsticks, although black is not my "best" color - olive green and khaki look "best" on me. Most SA lipsticks are too light on me, but I can wear the blushes. So I think I am a Soft-Deep autumn. Actually I am 100% sure I am a ... SDA lol.

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  7. I am sure I'm a winter..
    Vivid hues work best: royal blue & purple, true red, emerald, black, etc. I have (had) dark brown hair with a slight red highlight in the sun. I am very pale. But my eyes are more of an autumn's green..with a little bit of gold flecks & gray around the rim. I look terrible in autumn's colors & subdued summer colors. So what would be your guess? Deep winter?

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  8. I am so confused now. I have no idea what I am, I don't seem to fit any of the seasons because of my unusual coloring. I thought at first some kind of a summer because I look good in dusty pink, but my coloring doesn't match the description of a soft summer at all. I have dark caramel blonde hair with golden highlights in the summer, and "green hazel" eyes that are brown surrounded by forest green. My skin is ivory, very neutral, leaning towards more yellow than pink, but my wrist veins look blue. What season could I be?

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    Replies
    1. Lisa have you tried regular soft autumn colors? The dusty pink you look good in might actually be the muted dessert pink that SA comes alive in. There are a lot of pink tones in the SA fan.

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  9. Hi everyone, I was once analyzed twice many years ago. One woman said I was a winter and another a summer. I had Pia analyze me and I must say I have received compliments now on how I look. It turns out I'm a soft summer light. Anyways I highly recommend getting an analyst done by her. Di.

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    Replies
    1. Well thank you for your kind feed back, I will put it in the review page :-)

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  10. Hello! I am looking for a light spring soft palette..are they already available? where can I get them? thanks!

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    Replies
    1. Hello :-) Yes light spring soft palettes are available. Please contact me at coloressential@yahoo.it or coloressential12@gmail.com and I will give you information about how to order it from me :-)

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  11. Great blog! I'm glad to see the system has improved, gives us fans much more accuracy. I still think I'm a DA, but i can't ever seem to find the right Color red, I am having doubts when wearing burgundy

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  12. are there palettes for these new seasons anywhere?
    thx, Annie

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  13. This colour system idea seem like a great idea but I am yet toe seen practiced on purely on tanned to deeper toned women to see if can be applicable. Do you know any site that showcase the 16 colour system purely on deeper tones.

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  14. Thanks for this very clear, well illustrated explanation of the 16-season system. I agree that surface coloring isn't a reliable indication of season--but how you look in the colors of a seasonal palette is. Over the years I've grown sure of my own season (Light Summer), but I'm glad each main season has another subtype for people who don't seem to fit any of the 12.

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  15. Adriana Lima is clear spring, not summer.

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    Replies
    1. Dear Anonymous
      first of all thank you for passing by and commenting. Two thngs though:
      1. it is always a sign of education and good manners to use less imperative tones :-)
      2. In my oppinon NAD BASED ON THE WAY SHE LOOKS IN THE COLORS OF SOFT SUMMER she is definitely a SSUM. Can you please explain how could she be a Bright season when bright lipsticks or outfits clearly overwhelm her in a very bad way (you can see the photos or search for them on google) ??? The photos speak for themselves, however I think it is quite rude and offensive arriving on someone's blog and spitting put sentences without any explanation to support your SENTENCE. :-)
      Color analysis is based on how a person looks and reacts in certain colors not on what we guess by looking at eyes/hair.

      Delete
  16. This was very inappropriate to call someone uneducated and say that one doesn’t have manners just because the person has other opinion on a subject and this opinion wasn’t said in any offensive way. Your comments was not polite and they prove you have poor judgement - both in analysing ppl online and attitude towards other ppl
    and I found more mistakes in analysing celebrites on this blog

    but real opinions doesn't have right to exist on this blog, because you approve only buttering up

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  17. Dear Anonymous, thank you for you comment, I will try to answer:
    1. I didn't call her rude BUT HER WAYS O imposing an oppinion and mostly imposing it without any proof/argument to support her SENTENCE. Because when someone arrives in "the home of somebody else" and say "YOU ARE WRONG!" without at least explaining why I am wrong, well this is a very uneducated way to express an opinion.
    2. If you found so many mistakes in analysing people on my blog, well I would be really curious to see why and where did I go wrong :-) Simply saying "you are wrong" wihtout showing me or ate least telling me why... well, in your opinion, are you giving proof of intelligent behaviour?
    3. You are using offensive tones. Really offensive. I used terms like "please" "could you" when answering to anonymous 1, and I explained WHY I think she had bad manners. You instead are using tones and words, do not give any explanation, you offend me and my blog.
    4. I pubblish all comments. And again you offend my blog, me and the persons who leave comments here by calling their comments "buttering".
    I therefore close this disscussion and I will no further publish this kind of comments. If you or anyone else find my analysis wrong and want to show me why or want to show your point of view THAT IS PERFECTLY FINE and I will publish those comments. If you only want to spit offensive childish sentences on my work and blog just for the fun of it, no thank you.

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